Koh Tao is a cute, little island north of Ko Phangan known
for its cheap diving. Every turn you make, there's a scuba shop staring you in
the face. The island reminds me a lot of Paros, Greece. It's fairly quiet on
one side and a party island on the other. Pick your place. Suzie and I rented a
motorbike and snorkel gear. Ha! What a sight! The two of us crammed on one
scooter with snorkels coming out of my backpack and fins in Suzie's hands. We discovered
Freedom Beach which quickly became our favorite beach on the island. Between its
clear water, single beach bar, and coral mobiles hanging from the trees it was
the place to be.
Now we're off to party central: Ko Phangan.
It's that time of year again, and I've got the travel bug! The adventures will begin with the whole family in Vietnam and Cambodia. After my dad flies home, my ma, sister, and I will explore the beaches of Thailand. Then, my sister and I are let loose to roam Southeast Asia heading towards Nepal and northern India. Mid April I fly to Zambia to volunteer for a month at Appeased School before starting work in San Francisco. Ready or not, HERE I COME!
Monday, March 10, 2014
Night Boat from Hell
We met a nice couple in Chumphon who also had the whole day
to kill before their train left. We got the best travel tip so far. The girl
told us to go ahead and buy the more expensive night boat to Koh Tao. She
mentioned how she was nervous on the cheap, small boat as there was only one
exit, and hundreds of people crammed in the boat. Not thinking much about it,
we spent the extra dollar. Our boat left at 11pm and arrived at 5 am.
Around 2:30 in the morning I awoke to an ear shattering crash! Shit, are we going under? I heard the crash again and the boat was rocking side to side like a rollercoaster. We were rolling in our bunk beds hoping our luggage was too heavy to roll off! I thought I was going to meet my maker that night. I heard another crashing wave on the boat and wondered if this was normal. I wanted to go to the deck and see the night swell, but instead I stayed huddled under my covers for fear of falling off the deck. All I could think about was how lucky we were to get the bigger boat. I couldn't imagine being on any smaller boat. I defiantly now know what our traveling friend was talking about.
Around 2:30 in the morning I awoke to an ear shattering crash! Shit, are we going under? I heard the crash again and the boat was rocking side to side like a rollercoaster. We were rolling in our bunk beds hoping our luggage was too heavy to roll off! I thought I was going to meet my maker that night. I heard another crashing wave on the boat and wondered if this was normal. I wanted to go to the deck and see the night swell, but instead I stayed huddled under my covers for fear of falling off the deck. All I could think about was how lucky we were to get the bigger boat. I couldn't imagine being on any smaller boat. I defiantly now know what our traveling friend was talking about.
Sometime between crashes I'd fallen asleep only to wake up
again at 4am. I was so happy to know we only had an hour left. The waters have
to calm down as we get closer, right? Needless to say, we made it to Koh Tao, otherwise
you wouldn't be reading this.
Never again will I take the night boat from Mystery Island
This is the true definition of paradise. This is where
people go to escape. This is where there are no showers, but only a hose. All
the accommodations are full, but you only see a handful of people on the whole
stretch of beach. You’re morning alarm clock is replaced with the squawking of
roosters. Every bungalow has a gecko, and you find little presents in your bed
in the afternoon. This is where your biggest daily responsibility is to find the
reservoir, hike to the ranger station, read a book, or journal. Most things and
food are handmade. The island only has electricity from 6 pm to 9:30 pm. The
only way off this island is a longtail boat that comes twice a day. To catch
the boat, you must stand on shore, wave your arms, and jump up and down until
it sees you. This is where life is simple; you eat when you’re hungry, you
sleep when you’re tired, and make new friends every day.
Everyone has a different reason to be here. Some are
escaping their old life, some were born on the island, other people vacation
here, some come for a week but stay for a lifetime, some visit friends, and
some, like us, stumble upon it by mistake. A friend of Suzie’s suggested we go
to an island with the same name but to our surprise, the suggestion was for a
northeast Thai island and we are in the southwest. It was a pleasant surprise
and I wouldn’t change it for the world. I’ve met so many beautiful souls of all
ages and from all over (but defiantly a lot of German). We swam in the ocean,
did yoga on the beach, explored the tide pools, discovered the reservoir,
tasted cashew wine, trekked through a cashew plantation and stopped to try the
fruit, saw rubber trees tapped for their sap, and even found time to sit down
for a beer and hear other travelers’ stories.
This island draws a specific type of person. Materialist,
over-consuming people wouldn't fit in. It's for people who enjoy simple times,
people who don't need much in their life but a bed to sleep in and a roof over
their head. It's refreshing. It’s nice to force yourself to relax and have no
worries at all. I hope this island never changes. I hope it stays uncharted and
over looked. Until next time mystery island, keep those biting sand fleas,
blood-thirsty mosquitos, unsanitary food, polluted waters, and rabid dogs, or
at least that what we tell other tourists.
From Riches to Rags
Suzie and I are now on our own. We went from staying in nice
hotels with pools to hostels that look like you can rent a bed for an hour and have no separation between the shower and the
toilet. It finally feels like we’re traveling: waiting at bus stops, eating
street food, and watching our daily budget. Traveling in SEA is pretty cheap.
We’re trying to spend $20 a day. Back in San Luis Obispo, I was spending about
$23/day solely on rent and groceries. So this travel thing isn’t too too bad ;
)
It’s crazy how fast time goes by. It feels like just
yesterday we were all in Colorado planning our trip. Our family vacation came
and went and it is a reminder to live in the moment. Yes, it is good to plan
ahead and reflect on the past, but it’s important to take in everything right
now. Make new memories, do what you enjoy, and, most importantly, always look
on the bright side and make the best out of the situation.
Thursday, March 6, 2014
I've got Krabi in my pants!
Unlike common belief, Krabi is not pronounced like the red crustacean with claws, it's pronounced as G(k)-rabi.
It’s a shame when places get
overexposed, tourist run, and lose their character. In 20 years some places
change so much that they are unrecognizable. This is exactly what has happened
to Krabi and Koh Phi Phi. They both started as quant, beach towns and have
turned into worldwide couples retreat destinations. You know it’s bad when it
is difficult to find authentic Thai food in Thailand! There are more resorts
than year-round residents.
Even with all of this, we all
had a good time. Releigh Beach is a short longtail boat ride away from Krabi
and is gorgeous. Each one of us took our turn getting massages on the beach. In
Koh Phi Phi we went scuba diving and saw turtles, box fish, trumpet fish, parrot
fish, and many other creatures under the sea. Suzie jumped out of her comfort
zone and dove for the first time! Best put by Suzie, “The first dive was a
little scary, but the second dive makes you addicted!” I’m stoked we saw each
other on the other side!
This was the last stop for Mom’s
travel express. She’s heading back to the States and Suzie and I are continuing
to discover the Thai islands!
Wednesday, March 5, 2014
Kicking it with Buddha
Here we are at Siam Reap with the world famous Angkor ruins.
The best way to explore the ancient temples is to hire a
guide and a tuk tuk for the day.
We started at the most renowned temple of them all, Angkor Wat. It is the largest religious structure in the world. Around the temple, gardens, and fields is a mote. The whole construction took 36 years. That’s incredible for when it was built!! Next, we continued on to the Ta Prohm Temple which is famous for the filming of Tomb Rader and is also known as the Angelina Temple. The Temple was in the process of renovation since there was a lot of destruction during the Vietnam War. You could even see bullet holes in the stone. Most of the temples have been repaired and renovated. The last temple of the day was Angkor Thom. This was the most impressive temple! Standing before us were faces of Buddha in all different directions. As we pasted the main alter, we were giving insense and an orange bracelet which was tied around our wrist with a prayer for good luck.
We started at the most renowned temple of them all, Angkor Wat. It is the largest religious structure in the world. Around the temple, gardens, and fields is a mote. The whole construction took 36 years. That’s incredible for when it was built!! Next, we continued on to the Ta Prohm Temple which is famous for the filming of Tomb Rader and is also known as the Angelina Temple. The Temple was in the process of renovation since there was a lot of destruction during the Vietnam War. You could even see bullet holes in the stone. Most of the temples have been repaired and renovated. The last temple of the day was Angkor Thom. This was the most impressive temple! Standing before us were faces of Buddha in all different directions. As we pasted the main alter, we were giving insense and an orange bracelet which was tied around our wrist with a prayer for good luck.
The next day we trekked out to
Wat Thmey, a monastery in memory of those who died due to the Khmer Rouge. I
don’t understand how wonderful the people can be when the government resembles
the devil. Seeing a memorial of the killing fields really opens your eyes to
how disgusting people can be. The small museum followed one man’s life as he
was forced from his home in Pheom Pen to work in the fields. He was put in a reeducation camp
due to suspicion of anti-Khmer Rouge association. By some greater power
unknown to man he survived the camp and lived to tell the tale. This man saw
torture tactics that are so cruel, a sane man wouldn’t believe them.
To many peoples’ dismay, the US
govern was indirectly supporting the Khmer Rouge. We were assisting the
anti-communist party with financial and warfare aid. Although the US government
will not admit it, the anti-communist party was fighting side by side with the
Khmer Rouge sharing military tactics and equipment. If I can hold my sources
accountable, the leaders of the Khmer Rouge have never been put on trial. They
actually are good friends with the minister of the state.
To lift our spirits from this experience, we continued on to
the Cambodia Museum to learn about Buddhism, Cambodian tales, and the building
of Angkor Wat. The museum was very impressive, especially after seeing the
temples first hand.
That night we explored Pub Street. Wow, what a tourist
trap!!! Even with all the neon lights and the ear shattering music, it was fun.
We saw grilled snakes on a stick, fried tarantula, and baked crickets for sale.
Ewww! $1 to eat, $.50 for a photo.
Suzie and I enjoyed drinks with some friends from San Luis
Obispo. We shared travel stories and tips and then it was time for a tuk tuk
home and a good night sleep.
We saw the sites, explored the museum, and got out of there
as fast as we got there. Tomorrow is beach and massage time in southern
Thailand!!
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